hi help needed with 1224 supermount setup

[a33]

And is it per rotational degree?
(sometimes people use orbital degree, as an approximate; and so that they don't have to calculate the rotational degrees....)

Is that on both edges of the pulse or just one (rising or falling)?

Ah yes! That would account for 12, or 23.8 (twice as much)!

Greetz,
A33

 

[moonbase]

Is that on both edges of the pulse or just one (rising or falling)?

It is audible clicks of the v-box corresponding to the pulse count presented in the display of the v-box.
000 to 012 on the display of the v-box corresponds to approximately 1 degree of arc movement by the Jaeger 1224.

Rise or fall or whatever, simply use the numbers on the v-box display, 12 of them = 1 degree of arc movement.
3.0W to 4.0W = 12 units on the display.

 

[Captain Jack]

It is audible clicks of the v-box corresponding to the pulse count presented in the display of the v-box.
000 to 012 on the display of the v-box corresponds to approximately 1 degree of arc movement by the Jaeger 1224.

Rise or fall or whatever, simply use the numbers on the v-box display, 12 of them = 1 degree of arc movement.
3.0W to 4.0W = 12 units on the display.

The point I was trying to make is that some VBoxes/positioners count a 'click' on a rising or falling edge of the reed switch pulse, whereas others do this for rising AND falling edges - i.e. once when the reed switch opens and once when it closes.

Theoretically this means that you get double the accuracy on some positioners vs others regardless of what's on the other end of the cable. Practically, it's doubtful that you get *double* the accuracy or even how much benefit this extra 'click' per pulse actually brings to the party.

 

[a33]

3.0W to 4.0W = 12 units on the display.

So that would be 1 degree arc, so 12 units per degree arc? For latitudes somewhere in the UK?

For Kent, at lat=51.2, moving from 3W to 4W would be 1.1 rotational degree (so 10% more).

 

[moonbase]

The point I was trying to make is that some VBoxes/positioners count a 'click' on a rising or falling edge of the reed switch pulse, whereas others do this for rising AND falling edges - i.e. once when the reed switch opens and once when it closes.

Theoretically this means that you get double the accuracy on some positioners vs others regardless of what's on the other end of the cable. Practically, it's doubtful that you get *double* the accuracy or even how much benefit this extra 'click' per pulse actually brings to the party.

I think the Echostar AD3600 receivers used to have this "double counting" procedure?
However, it was not much use if I remember correctly as it was not easy to get it to step in single unit counts on the display. it tended to step in multiples?

The only other positioner I have seen with the "double counting" was a Technomate version of a v-box in a grey casing.
Again, not really usable as it stepped in multiples if I recall correctly.

The moteck versions of a v-box definitely do not have the double counting, I have a few here in use on Jaeger 1224's.

Once @Manikm909 has installed his Jaeger 1224 and positioner he will be able to provide info on the display pulse counts per arc degree for his location.

 

[Manikm909]

I think the Echostar AD3600 receivers used to have this "double counting" procedure?
However, it was not much use if I remember correctly as it was not easy to get it to step in single unit counts on the display. it tended to step in multiples?

The only other positioner I have seen with the "double counting" was a Technomate version of a v-box in a grey casing.
Again, not really usable as it stepped in multiples if I recall correctly.

The moteck versions of a v-box definitely do not have the double counting, I have a few here in use on Jaeger 1224's.

Once @Manikm909 has installed his Jaeger 1224 and positioner he will be able to provide info on the display pulse counts per arc degree for his location.

i can do this, i'll use 1w to 1.9e - count the clicks and watch the display

thank you everyone

so to my point, i guess the motor should NOT be on ZERO i.e straight ahead, when aligning on 1w....

also, if anyone has one, can their clarify - the procedure for raising or lowering the motor elevation, is it losen top nut, and then tighten the bottom nut to raise (or lower the motor) and vice versa...?

 

[Mickha]

You need the motor, and LNB, set to 0, then either use your receiver to move it East, or West, depending on your Longitude, the required amount, to align it on 1W.
If you want to move the motor forward, so that the dish is pointing down, loosen the bottom nut, then tighten the top nut, if you need to raise the motor then loosen the top nut and tighten the lower nut.

If you post a picture, of where the nuts are currently, it will help, conversely, if the weather is good, tomorrow, then I will take a picture of my current setup.

 

[moonbase]

i can do this, i'll use 1w to 1.9e - count the clicks and watch the display

thank you everyone

so to my point, i guess the motor should NOT be on ZERO i.e straight ahead, when aligning on 1w....

also, if anyone has one, can their clarify - the procedure for raising or lowering the motor elevation, is it losen top nut, and then tighten the bottom nut to raise (or lower the motor) and vice versa...?

The weight of the motor with the dish on it should naturally have a tendency to tilt forward.

If you loosen the top nut above the pivotting saddle on the M16 main elevation bolt the whole assembly should automatically lower its skyward aim.
Tightening the top nut above the saddle assembly should raise the skyward aim of the dish.

In practice, with a 1.2m CM on the motor at a UK location the bottom nut below the saddle assembly does not need to be used until you have aligned the dish and wish to lock it all in place.
You could back the bottom nut off out of the way and let the top nut do all the work.
If the M16 main elevation bolt is rusted up the bottom nut may have to be used for adjustment. However, applying some machine oil to the elevation bolt should resolve this.

 

[Manikm909]

28 clicks between peak signal on 1w (Al Jeezera) -> peak signal on 1.9e Balkania HD
So 14 clicks per 1 degree ...?
Does that mean - set my motor to zero (straight ahead) - and then 14 clicks to the right (west) before setting up on 1w ?

(sorry typed that before i read @moonbase post)

thanks!

 

[moonbase]

28 clicks between peak signal on 1w (Al Jeezera) -> peak signal on 1.9e Balkania HD
So 14 clicks per 1 degree ...?
Does that mean - set my motor to zero (straight ahead) - and then 14 clicks to the right (west) before setting up on 1w ?

(sorry typed that before i read @moonbase post)

thanks!

Those two satellites are 2.7 degrees apart. Thor 5 with Al Jazeera is at 0.8W.
28 clicks for 2.7 degrees is not 14 clicks per degree.

 

[Mickha]

My setup, Channel master 1.2M, SMR 1224, with adapter plate:

 

[Channel Hopper]

My setup, Channel master 1.2M, SMR 1224, with adapter plate:
View attachment 153469View attachment 153470View attachment 153471View attachment 153472

I've always thought the reflector could be brought a number of cms closer to the pole with just a few carefully drilled holes in the bracketry