^^^ yes, expensive (taxes, of course) but diesel quite cheaper than petrol, and substantial price cuttings are regularly to be found on different stations and different days, so it pays to top up regularly when spotting a discount. Roughly, diesel on this trip was around 1.15 -1.20 euro\l, van uses around 0,65\10km, so no complaints.
Problem with toll it's not only city centers and motorways (and anyway there are nearly no motorways in this retarded (roadwise) country), now they ask payment on smaller roads, to pay for work being done and for new tunnels.