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<blockquote data-quote="jeallen01" data-source="post: 1105881" data-attributes="member: 176704"><p>Very early ES ("Edison Screw") bulb holders didn't have an insulation shroud around the outer edge of the holders and so a person screwing a bulb in could get a shock - but modern US & European ones do have shrouds and that prevents the live screwed part of the holder from contacting the screw on the bulb until it has been screwed almost fully in, and thus no shock.</p><p></p><p>As long as an ES bulb has the correct voltage between the centre button and the screw thread then it should work. Thus if there's 220V between those points then a 220V rated bulb should light up.</p><p></p><p>NB: Whilst almost all of Europe does use single phase 220V, the "Harmonized" nominal voltage is 230V -6%/+10%, meaning that products should work correctly from around 216V to 253V. </p><p></p><p>However if a nominal "220V" system dropped a lot below the lower limit then they might not - OTOH, a lot of kit is sold worldwide into countries where the "nominal voltage" is just that, i.e. "nominal" but actual voltages can drop well below that, and so most (non-motor-operated) kit, including bulbs, will proabably actually operate down to around 190-200V before "problems" arise.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jeallen01, post: 1105881, member: 176704"] Very early ES ("Edison Screw") bulb holders didn't have an insulation shroud around the outer edge of the holders and so a person screwing a bulb in could get a shock - but modern US & European ones do have shrouds and that prevents the live screwed part of the holder from contacting the screw on the bulb until it has been screwed almost fully in, and thus no shock. As long as an ES bulb has the correct voltage between the centre button and the screw thread then it should work. Thus if there's 220V between those points then a 220V rated bulb should light up. NB: Whilst almost all of Europe does use single phase 220V, the "Harmonized" nominal voltage is 230V -6%/+10%, meaning that products should work correctly from around 216V to 253V. However if a nominal "220V" system dropped a lot below the lower limit then they might not - OTOH, a lot of kit is sold worldwide into countries where the "nominal voltage" is just that, i.e. "nominal" but actual voltages can drop well below that, and so most (non-motor-operated) kit, including bulbs, will proabably actually operate down to around 190-200V before "problems" arise. [/QUOTE]
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