Which ~1m Dish

Channel Hopper

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Unfortunately the professional I got to do the roof install (had some other cabling to run so thought i'd get him to do it all) wasn't qualified at all so i'm going to have to re-do it all
Name and shame.

Since you have a meter you should be able to do a good enough job now the dish is in the right place, unless the installer has made a real pig's ear of the equipment.
 

DonSE2

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He was a pleasant enough bloke and has offered a discount so i'll refrain from naming him

All the kit is up on the roof with the cabling done. It's on a NPRM but no consideration was given for the slight roof pitch so the pole is way out of plumb. That might be a little tricky to do, i'll need some extra support under one side, unsure the best way to go about that but some extra mats should do it. From there it should be straight forward.... Yeah the mini receiver has been a great purchase, it didn't take long at all to set the other dish back up in the garden temporarily. To think at one time I was trying to tune the Triax by running back and forth to the TV inside
 

ozumo

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If you attach a pole to the NPRM pole using 8 exhaust clamp saddles (not the U-bolt part but the other bit) and threaded rod you can then get the added pole plumb.

Or, depending on how the NPRM is constructed, you may be able extend bolt holes to give some adjustment.

Or bolt the NPRM on top of some paving slabs and use washers or nuts between the NPRM & slabs.
 

DonSE2

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If you attach a pole to the NPRM pole using 8 exhaust clamp saddles (not the U-bolt part but the other bit) and threaded rod you can then get the added pole plumb.

Or, depending on how the NPRM is constructed, you may be able extend bolt holes to give some adjustment.

Or bolt the NPRM on top of some paving slabs and use washers or nuts between the NPRM & slabs.
Thanks, do you have any examples of that?

I think there is a bit of play in two of the support arms for the mount but will need more padding to get it close to level first.
 

ozumo

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Thanks, do you have any examples of that?

I think there is a bit of play in two of the support arms for the mount but will need more padding to get it close to level first.
Similar to this, but with added nuts between the clamps to provide adjustment. I would use exhaust clamps to match the pole diameter.
Using threaded rods instead of the large U-bolt would ensure there was sufficient adjustment available.
 

DonSE2

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So the first important step of getting a good motorised install seems to be getting the mounting pole plumb. But does the pole need to be plumb in the north/south plane? My thinking is it's the interaction between elevation on the motor and the dish declination that decide the angle of the dish. If the pole is level in the East/West plane but leans forwards towards south slightly then this can be offset by increasing the motor elevation or dish elevation to compensate to maintain the exact same optimal dish orientation. Am I correct in this thinking?

I ask as i've managed to get the pole plumb in the east/west direction and tracking well (tweaking east/west with disceqc on each satellite doesn't improve the signal) but signal is ever sio slightly down from the garden install (could just be the cloud cover)

The other odd thing is that the lnb arm needed a few packers in the garden to peak the signal but now adding packers doesn't make a difference
 

ozumo

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In theory yes only the east/west plane needs to be vertical, but making sure that plane is in the the exact east/west direction is the difficult part. Have you tried pulling the dish from the top or bottom to check if the arc is tracking correctly?
 

DonSE2

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In theory yes only the east/west plane needs to be vertical, but making sure that plane is in the the exact east/west direction is the difficult part. Have you tried pulling the dish from the top or bottom to check if the arc is tracking correctly?
That's good to know, I got it level using some more foam matting under the mount, it was easier than sourcing another pole etc. Tricky to get it completely plumb because the upright pole hasn't been moulded perfectly straight. I've got it pretty spot on in the east/west plane with the bracket pointing south. Yep, pulling and pushing it doesn't raise the signal, the arc is tracking very nicely but the signal is just marginally down from what I had managed to get in the garden and playing with the lnb arm doesn't improve things like it did before so a bit confused, if it was dropping too low before I don't get why it wouldn't still be the case. It's only minor though and might be because it's overcast
 

a33

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If the pole is level in the East/West plane but leans forwards towards south slightly then this can be offset by increasing the motor elevation or dish elevation to compensate to maintain the exact same optimal dish orientation.

A correct axis elevation is needed, so correction for north/south non-plumbness can only be done with the 'motor elevation'.

(BTW. Use so-called modified motor angles; they track the arc better than the 'traditional' motor angles!)

Greetz,
A33
 

DonSE2

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A correct axis elevation is needed, so correction for north/south non-plumbness can only be done with the 'motor elevation'.

(BTW. Use so-called modified motor angles; they track the arc better than the 'traditional' motor angles!)

Greetz,
A33
Interesting, so tweaking the motor elevation slightly could improve things potentially. i'll put my inclometer and see what it reads.
 
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