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DISH SETUP: Single sat, Multi-Sat & Motorised
Channel Master/Laminas 1.8m project
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<blockquote data-quote="archive10" data-source="post: 967375"><p>Hey CJ,</p><p></p><p>My two cents:</p><p></p><p>if you want to continue with your plans as outlined above, I would go for a "mushroom" type dig, with a central and deep (80-100 cm) hole of, say one spade-width, and then stick vertical re-bars in there (before you pour the concrete) for structural strength. You should also put a couple of horizontal ones in the plinth.</p><p>This would give you a nice platform to drill into / work on.</p><p></p><p>Something like this (pardon my bad mousing skills):</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]92161[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>You do not need to stick any plastic liner in the whole before pouring concrete as far as I am concerned.</p><p>Not even if you are using instant concrete mix - I did my summer cottage installation in soft soil as well, and it worked out well (of course there is the pipe to give it structural strength, but still).</p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.satellites.co.uk/forums/threads/channel-master-120-for-28-2e-in-rural-southern-sweden.162543/#post-896529" target="_blank">Channel Master 120 for 28.2E in rural southern Sweden</a></p><p></p><p>Depending on how thick the concrete mix is (ie. the viscosity), I might consider planing the top with a rake, measuring regularly with a plank + spirit level.</p><p></p><p>This approach would make for best re-use of the materials you have.</p><p></p><p></p><p>HOWEVER, from my own experience with 180cm dishes, and lots of deliberation, I would opt for an embedded "deep" concrete block (1m deep, 40x40 cm), with rebars and all, and then threaded bards sticking out for mounting using a king post.</p><p>This makes adjusting for plumbness much easier, as adjusting the nuts on the threaded bars can tip the kingpost in any direction.</p><p>(Mind you this is not how I ended up doing it, but I managed to not pour lots and lots of concrete).</p><p></p><p>If there was no soil-limit to the depth (base rock), I would make the hole as deep as possible (I went down to 110 cm which was the practical limit for digging by hand), and then leave the top of the concrete 20 cm lower than the general soil level. (This requires a slightly longer kingpost, so you need one custom made.)</p><p>In case of moving house, this would allow you to simply unscrew the retaining bolts, remove the kingpost, and cover the top with 20 soil. Job done.</p><p>I would also make the bottom wider than the hole (just 10-15 cm), to make the concrete stick in there like a cork...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="archive10, post: 967375"] Hey CJ, My two cents: if you want to continue with your plans as outlined above, I would go for a "mushroom" type dig, with a central and deep (80-100 cm) hole of, say one spade-width, and then stick vertical re-bars in there (before you pour the concrete) for structural strength. You should also put a couple of horizontal ones in the plinth. This would give you a nice platform to drill into / work on. Something like this (pardon my bad mousing skills): [ATTACH=full]92161[/ATTACH] You do not need to stick any plastic liner in the whole before pouring concrete as far as I am concerned. Not even if you are using instant concrete mix - I did my summer cottage installation in soft soil as well, and it worked out well (of course there is the pipe to give it structural strength, but still). [URL="https://www.satellites.co.uk/forums/threads/channel-master-120-for-28-2e-in-rural-southern-sweden.162543/#post-896529"]Channel Master 120 for 28.2E in rural southern Sweden[/URL] Depending on how thick the concrete mix is (ie. the viscosity), I might consider planing the top with a rake, measuring regularly with a plank + spirit level. This approach would make for best re-use of the materials you have. HOWEVER, from my own experience with 180cm dishes, and lots of deliberation, I would opt for an embedded "deep" concrete block (1m deep, 40x40 cm), with rebars and all, and then threaded bards sticking out for mounting using a king post. This makes adjusting for plumbness much easier, as adjusting the nuts on the threaded bars can tip the kingpost in any direction. (Mind you this is not how I ended up doing it, but I managed to not pour lots and lots of concrete). If there was no soil-limit to the depth (base rock), I would make the hole as deep as possible (I went down to 110 cm which was the practical limit for digging by hand), and then leave the top of the concrete 20 cm lower than the general soil level. (This requires a slightly longer kingpost, so you need one custom made.) In case of moving house, this would allow you to simply unscrew the retaining bolts, remove the kingpost, and cover the top with 20 soil. Job done. I would also make the bottom wider than the hole (just 10-15 cm), to make the concrete stick in there like a cork... [/QUOTE]
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DISH SETUP: Single sat, Multi-Sat & Motorised
Channel Master/Laminas 1.8m project
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