Diseqc motor repair info please

[Emerald Zapper]

I bought a diseqc dish motor under a year ago, from a dealer in the USA on Ebay, now its broken, but it will probably cost me an arm and a leg posting it back and to cover the postage to have it sent back to me, as I unfortunetely violated the warrenty by opening the unit.

What I really want to find out is whether it is possible to get it fixed fairly cheaply or could I do it myself.

The problem with the unit is the LNB socket on the underside of the motor housing, its come away completely from the coax cable inside the unit, which is itself connected to a small curcuit board inside the housing.

Is it possible to take out the circuit board (I didn't want to force it out and possibly break it further) and solder the wire back to the socket which is mounted on the outside of the unit.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[guest poster]

what make's the motor ... could you upload a photo or two...?

 

[Emerald Zapper]

Thanks for the very quick reply pedro2000uk.

Unfortunetely I can't remember the make or model of the motor, and I won't get access to them until Tuesday when I get home, but as far as I can see, most if not all of these motors are almost identical, slight cosmetic differences only.

 

[SST12]

Hi Emerald

Is the PCB held in the plastic lid, in which case its either mounted by screws into plastic mouldings on the lid or secured with lock nuts on the RF connectors, Try and take some photo's if you can.

 

[guest poster]

is it any of these

 

[Emerald Zapper]

Hi SST12

The PCB is, as far as I could make out, held in place by the LNB socket and the Reciever socket, sticking through holes in the metel outer casing, and being held there by locking nuts on the shafts of the sockets.

 

[Emerald Zapper]

Thanks for the pic's Pedro.

The last two photo's, on the right, are almost identical and are, as far as I can remember, the closest to my broken motor.

 

[Channel Hopper]

Having taken a load of them apart, you will need a pozidrive screwdriver for the outer casing, and a very long set of needle nose pliers to undo the two nuts in the recesses of the F plug connectors.

Once you have loosened the lid (the warranty sticker will almost certainly tear in two) the main drive shaft of the actuator arm may need careful prising out of its socket in the top. After a year of use in harsh conditions this may need some force by clamping the lid in a vice, and levering the two halves apart.

There are no screws holding the PCB, it is located in two grooves in a small pocket at the end of the motor, and if the wires to the motor gearbox are not on a snap connector, they should just be just long enough to allow the PCB to slip out of the housing, and accessible with a fine tip soldering iron.

 

[bubby-joe]

After changing the logic board under warranty two years ago to avoid 2X freight that equaled the cost of a new one to get it repaired or replaced under warranty I do know the HH-90 has 2 solder joints to heat up to remove the boards, remove 2 screws holding the main board then 2 nuts on cable connection then heat 2 solder joints on the motor board to heat up then replace with the new boards, ribbon cable is soldered to both boards. Simple fix. Something I noticed on my Stab HH-90 unit is if the upper motor pivot bolt if tightened to 15 ft.lb. the motor binds and will not work, or moves with a very jerky motion try to loosen this upper mount bolt re tighten to 60 in.lb.and test first. After I installed the new board and retested the motor failed but it was the bolt being over tight as I now use the same motor with the upper bolt just snug no more and everything works fine.

 

[guest poster]

..............Stab HH-90 .......

any internal photos Joe... ?

 

[Emerald Zapper]

Many many thanksto everyone who answered my question, however, being the lazy sod that I am, and bearing in mind I was missing my motorised satellite viewing, I took the easy option and bought a new diseqc dish motor on Ebay.

My intention is to take my time, get the old motor fixed just in case the new one breaks down, so I'll have a motor in reserve ready to go.

Like I said, manyu thanks to everyone who answered my question.

 

[bubby-joe]

any internal photos Joe... ?

Sorry no internal pic's of the motor as it's now in use but I can give you pic's of just the HH-90 logic and motor boards. Let me know if they need more light or better focus Olympus camera, macro setting, no flash, inside at night. The only solder points are on the motor board the two lager square solder pads. Really quite easy to replace comes with no instructions but it's obvious how to replace it. **

 

[guest poster]

Thanks for taking the time to photo the board Joe (good macro) .. you could post it on the motor internals thread as it's the only pic' on the STAB 90hh internals so far.

 

[mattern]

you have orbitron parts? we have orbitron sx 8.5 with ajak chain rack and pinion drive motor bearing failed. do you have one or the unimount for linear activator?

 

[PaulR]

The thread is 20 months old! Not sure that you'll get a response now...

 

[Channel Hopper]

The thread is 20 months old! Not sure that you'll get a response now...

Not so fast

I know there is an Ajak motor in the shed,but it may not be the same as the one from the Orbitron system. A photo would help from Mattern.

 

[mattern]

forum 141615/post 943570/paulr: no camera here. only mark on motor is 't.d. c 9' supposedly for 9 counts per degree. 3 mounting bolts 1 5/8" (41+ mm), o.c.; motor case 2 3/4" (70 mm) o.d. and 75 mm long; reed switch 2 15/16" ( 75 mm) o.d.; 5 magnets.

 

[mattern]

channel hopper: is the ajak motor you have equal to specifications in our 9/13 post? don mattern

 

[mattern]

channel hopper: if ajak motor you have matches mine, i want to buy. don mattern