Jaeger 1224 restoration/modification

[RimaNTSS]

OK, have this motor laying on balcony already several days, but did not do much with it. First of all, motor is quiet old and has lots of oxidation and corrosion. Secondly, many screws, nuts and bolts are stuck in their places and when you start to unscrew them, they easily break. For example, one of three bolts fixing upper plate lost its head during transportation. I tried to unscrew another 2 and seems they are also going to beak. Same happened with one of four screws securing plastic cup above the motor, that simply stuck inside, so I drilled it out successfully.
So, I am making this tread, cuz I fill I will need lots of time to restore this beast and, perhaps also modernize it.
First, will take everything apart, change nuts&bolts to INOX, replace damaged and too rusted parts to new ones. Modernization will consist of strengthening tho body to prevent possible cracks, improving fixing mount to antenna. Maybe even adopting motor to work with USALS.
Everybody is welcome to give your ideas and advices.

 

[pride21]

nice one RimaNTSS well worth the effort I have had mine for around 15 years a great motor,if for any reason it broke down I would try and do what you are doing.

 

[wod]

Please post where you get the inox bolts from as looking to replace mine due to rusting

 

[RimaNTSS]

I used to buy INOX stuff from our local shops 1 and 2 , usually I go personally there and after some bargaining get up to 10-15% discount. But most important is whether they have any part you need. If they do not , than it is still possible to make, but, of course, costs more. So, my plan is to find everything out of the shelve, and only if it is impossible- order custom-made.
Add: And I still have couple of kilos of INOX in stock

 

[Captain Jack]

I buy my stainless steel nuts and bolts from eBay.

 

[RimaNTSS]

This motor, certainly has some milage. Everything outside is rusted, corroded and stuck. However, all the gears, electrical motor, under the plastic cover is in good shape.
3 bolts (#1) were stuck completely and gave away their heads, so they were angle-grindered and drilled out.
Metal finger, which fixates upper triangular part to main axe was stuck completely, so it was also drilled out
4 bolts (#4, picture 6) were loosen, so all the gears were removed to tighten them
Not happy face (#6, picture 7)
Will do more planning and restoration will continue

My friend Trust! Thanks for great help and spending so much time working on my motor.

 

[Captain Jack]

Wow, that's a lot of work! I probably would have given up at that first bolt......

 

[RimaNTSS]

And forgot to tell about 4mmX40mm screws (not big but nasty), they were suppose to fix plastic covers, but two out of seven were stuck in metal. They were also drilled out. And, of course, when you try to drill out usual metal screw out of aluminum..... then drill does looks for softer metal to go through.

 

[Trust]

Rimants , we talked about the usals modification by making a optical sensor to 14 slots wheel instaed of the magnet wheel .
The circuitboard of a SG2100 is 75 x 85 mm , i think there is enough room in the Jaeger to build it in it .
Also the extra relay board wil fit .

 

[Captain Jack]

Will be very interested in the USALs modification! Any circuit diagrams etc. will be helpful, so take lots of pictures

 

[purplemarina]

And forgot to tell about 4mmX40mm screws (not big but nasty), they were suppose to fix plastic covers, but two out of seven were stuck in metal. They were also drilled out. And, of course, when you try to drill out usual metal screw out of aluminum..... then drill does looks for softer metal to go through.

Will you use "plastic metal" or similar product to fill in the enlarged holes before you retap the threads or are you going to weld them? Great project looking forward to next report!

 

[RimaNTSS]

There are no problems in plastic. Wood-screws were stuck in aluminum because of moisture and consequent oxidation. So, those problematic screws drilled out, holes in aluminum got little bit bigger, but it is still possible to use longer screws and to get them in plastic. This is minor issue anyway. Main modification will be done to strengthen body of the motor by building metal frame underneath it. And, as Trust said, perhaps adaptation to work with USALS will be next step of tuning of this beast.

 

[purplemarina]

plastic metal is a two part product that you mix together (like car body filler) when it goes off it is hard as metal you can drill and tap it, it is useful for restoring enlarged holes. you can grease the tread of the bolt screw it in to the good thread fill the drilled out hole with plastic metal, when it has gone off just unscrew the bolt and the thread is formed. very useful! another brand is "Quick steel"

 

[Trust]

Will be very interested in the USALs modification! Any circuit diagrams etc. will be helpful, so take lots of pictures

Usals modification for H2H motors
I modified a few H2H 36 V motors so they can be controlled by Usals .
Its nessesary to generate approx. 40 pulses / 1º movement of the dish , therefore you have to change the reedswitch for a optical pulser .
The motor of a FIBO 120 cm Gregorian already was provide with such pulser with only 1 hole in the pulswheel , but to be exact for Usals it should be 6 and a half .
Far from exact but by changing the Latitude in the Usals menu to a more North position it workt fine with 6 holes .
I used a old Clearmax CX2200 positioner , built the circuitboard of a SG2100 to it and used the east/west relays and the transformer .
This transformer produce also 12 volt ( most V-Boxes do also) and so i added a switch to have the choice between 36 and 12 volt to steer the motor (less noisy and exact)
By the lack of the SG2100 zero and end-switches you cant use the "Go to reference" command . Therefore you must steer the motor manual .
With the east and west switches on the front , it is possible to steer the motor without any effect to the memory of Usals .

Also did the job with a RM120 wich i have 2 , one with reedswitch , the other optical with a 10 hole wheel wich should be 66 holes .
Impossible to dril 66 holes to the edge of a 40 mm dia wheel , the space in the housing of that RM120 allowed a increase to 60 mm, still tricky , so i made 66 slots of 2 mm .
I attached a SG2100 without the worm-shaft and motor on top of the RM120 to make use of the zero and end-switches and the "Go to reference" command .
Removing the worm-shaft and motor , gives space for the contactor-interface , powered by a 30 V printer adapter .

Last job is a AJAK Horizon 180 , it has a reedswitch to a 5 magnet wheel , attaching a hood of a 50 mm pvc drainpipe with 48 slots to that wheel , was exactly the need for my latitude .


To determine the correct amount of pulses i attached a printed protractor to the rotor and by making use of a separate puls counter and turn the rotor 10º
By using GAAPS , a calculator of Moteck , its possible to see on the degree scale how far the rotor turns at a diseqc command .

With the SMR 1224 from Rimants , we found that one turn of the magnet wheel , provides 4 pulses and it makes 2,875 rotation / 1 degree rotation of the main shaft .
So with a 14 slot pulswheel and a optical sensor it can operate with Usals with the additional electronics .

 

[RimaNTSS]

Than wheel like this to replace magnet? Bigger will not fit.

 

[RimaNTSS]

So, wheels are ready.

 

[Vipersan]

So, wheels are ready.

Nice Job Rima ..
I hope you are proud of those ?
You should be !
;)

 

[RimaNTSS]

First of all, thanks Terryl for sending me guts of Diseqc motor. Now I have more or less parts together to make motor USALS capable. Have plan to do some mechanical work on motor itself over summer time, such as sandblasting, painting, attaching additional metal frame to make motor more durable. Updates are to come later.

 

[RimaNTSS]

Unfortunately I had no time this summer to spend on Jaeger. Will do something tomorrow- bottom part will be completely flattened and than I will need to find 8-10mm thick metal plate to attach to motor body. So, this plate will be strong enough to prevent aluminum body of the motor to break apart (some people experienced that).
Instead of one central screw for elevation adjustments I plan to use 2 turnbuckles (most likely 10mm).

 

[RimaNTSS]

OK, have got several turnbuckles today, will stick with 10mm ones. To have ears of turnbuckles centered had to order adopted nuts. All nuts&bolts are going to be changed to INOX-made. Also got Jaeger body's bottom part completely flattened. Going to make 12mm metal plate (aluminum this time) to join to the motor's body and make it much stronger. Lots of thinks to do with this motor, but I like it.