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<blockquote data-quote="ArloG" data-source="post: 1166954" data-attributes="member: 418555">Good progress. Having the right tools at the right time sure does help. Or friends with them.A sand or bead blasting cabinet sure would be nice for the rusty, corroded stuff.If you've never used Evapo-Rust you'd be amazed at how it works versus electrolysis. I cannot say more. Electrolysis to remove the crust and then a soak in it would bring big smiles.Kroil. You gotta' get a can of Kroil!Helicoil kits are not too expensive for a one-off fix. They don't overbore much compared to a drill to the next size up. Or....and friend with a Time-Sert kit. The old mig or tig a nut to broken studs and bolts works wonders. Sometimes, usually.Drilling into twisted off hardware and making sure the pilot hole is centered is a pain. The bolt or stud becomes work hardened in the exact place you need to drill. Sucks!A steel or copper sleeve slipped over the protruding threads or inside of a recessed bore. Perhaps telescoping another piece inside. Makes for a drill guide that should let you start the pilot hole centered.Those diamond Dremel-type cutter bit assortments you see in hardware stores are awesome. Using the above sleeve guide you will be able to grind a starter hole right smack in the center. Let the diamond do the work. Squirt cooling water to flush the cuttings. A small set of end mills using the same procedure works.That last photo of the mounting flange would be handled well with a small bearing knife. I have a set from small to large. Really makes pulling a tough CV axle from vehicles quick work.Too bad you don't have a hobbiest powder coat rig and able to send the wifey out while you steal her oven for a bit!Good job!</blockquote>

[QUOTE="ArloG, post: 1166954, member: 418555"] Good progress. Having the right tools at the right time sure does help. Or friends with them. A sand or bead blasting cabinet sure would be nice for the rusty, corroded stuff. If you've never used Evapo-Rust you'd be amazed at how it works versus electrolysis. I cannot say more. Electrolysis to remove the crust and then a soak in it would bring big smiles. Kroil. You gotta' get a can of Kroil! Helicoil kits are not too expensive for a one-off fix. They don't overbore much compared to a [I]drill to the next size up[/I]. Or....and friend with a Time-Sert kit. The old mig or tig a nut to broken studs and bolts works wonders. Sometimes, usually. Drilling into twisted off hardware and making sure the pilot hole is centered is a pain. The bolt or stud becomes work hardened in the exact place you need to drill. Sucks! A steel or copper sleeve slipped over the protruding threads or inside of a recessed bore. Perhaps telescoping another piece inside. Makes for a drill guide that should let you start the pilot hole centered. Those diamond Dremel-type cutter bit assortments you see in hardware stores are awesome. Using the above sleeve guide you will be able to grind a starter hole right smack in the center. Let the diamond do the work. Squirt cooling water to flush the cuttings. A small set of end mills using the same procedure works. That last photo of the mounting flange would be handled well with a small bearing knife. I have a set from small to large. Really makes pulling a tough CV axle from vehicles quick work. Too bad you don't have a hobbiest powder coat rig and able to send the wifey out while you steal her oven for a bit! Good job! [/QUOTE]

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