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Satellite Systems - What to Buy - What to install
Vbox 3 and actuator wiring
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<blockquote data-quote="ArloG" data-source="post: 1161631" data-attributes="member: 418555"><p>I'd like to help.</p><p>The v-box sensor input is designed to work with reed switch equipped actuators.</p><p>A switch enclosed in glass that operates when the round actuator magnet N-S poles get close enough to operate it.</p><p>Think of the wall switch in your home that you could operate with a magnet instead of your finger.</p><p>Except when you move the magnet away, the lights go off.</p><p></p><p>If the actuator has 3 terminals for the sensor wiring. Then a hall effect switch or an optical interrupter is used.</p><p>If it's a hall switch then the same type of magnet that operates a reed switch is used.</p><p>If an optical switch is used. There will be a slotted wheel that blocks or unblocks the sensor beam.</p><p></p><p>A reed switch will work just like shorting two wires together.</p><p>A hall or optical switch does the same. But needs an external power source to run the circuit.</p><p>When powered with a DC voltage. Normally 5 VDC. The sensor (pulse) connection and common (ground) will act just like the reed sensor wires will be shorted when the magnet operates it.</p><p></p><p>The v-box sensor terminals should have ~ 5 VDC if measured with a multimeter.</p><p>So the power supply operating the sensor in the actuator should be close to the same.</p><p>That is why on IRD receivers with motor controls and 3 wire sensor inputs, and/or polorotor skew control, have a +5 VDC terminal.</p><p>To power them if equipped.</p><p></p><p>Ground (common) should be connected to the outer braided shield.</p><p>+ 5VDC connected to one of the sensor wires. Preferrably the red wire so you don't forget.</p><p>And the sensor wire whatever color is left.</p><p>Inside, feed 5 VDC from a wall wart from the junk drawer. Make sure that you check the snipped wire polarity.</p><p>Send +5 VDC up the cable to the actuator (red wire).</p><p>Use the braided shield as the ground of the wall wart -5 VDC.</p><p>Connect the shield (braid) to the v-box black terminal.</p><p>And then the sensor wire from the actuator to the red v-box terminal.</p><p>Keep the sensor wires as far away from the actuator motor wires as you are able to.</p><p>Because the actuator motor can make some pretty dirty electrical noise that can cause false triggering that adds extra 'counts' to the v-box.</p><p></p><p>BTW. I've made several encoders for linear actuators. Hall effect switches with Schmitt triggers, optical encoders and slotted trigger wheels.</p><p>By far the best and most accurate are optical encoders. Especially when making a high resolution encoder.</p><p>I have a 12' dish with 36" actuator. And have increased the pulse counts from the stock 6 ppr of the actuator output shaft to 20.</p><p>It gives very accurate dish positioning and excellent repeatability.</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps a bit. I'm new here.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ArloG, post: 1161631, member: 418555"] I'd like to help. The v-box sensor input is designed to work with reed switch equipped actuators. A switch enclosed in glass that operates when the round actuator magnet N-S poles get close enough to operate it. Think of the wall switch in your home that you could operate with a magnet instead of your finger. Except when you move the magnet away, the lights go off. If the actuator has 3 terminals for the sensor wiring. Then a hall effect switch or an optical interrupter is used. If it's a hall switch then the same type of magnet that operates a reed switch is used. If an optical switch is used. There will be a slotted wheel that blocks or unblocks the sensor beam. A reed switch will work just like shorting two wires together. A hall or optical switch does the same. But needs an external power source to run the circuit. When powered with a DC voltage. Normally 5 VDC. The sensor (pulse) connection and common (ground) will act just like the reed sensor wires will be shorted when the magnet operates it. The v-box sensor terminals should have ~ 5 VDC if measured with a multimeter. So the power supply operating the sensor in the actuator should be close to the same. That is why on IRD receivers with motor controls and 3 wire sensor inputs, and/or polorotor skew control, have a +5 VDC terminal. To power them if equipped. Ground (common) should be connected to the outer braided shield. + 5VDC connected to one of the sensor wires. Preferrably the red wire so you don't forget. And the sensor wire whatever color is left. Inside, feed 5 VDC from a wall wart from the junk drawer. Make sure that you check the snipped wire polarity. Send +5 VDC up the cable to the actuator (red wire). Use the braided shield as the ground of the wall wart -5 VDC. Connect the shield (braid) to the v-box black terminal. And then the sensor wire from the actuator to the red v-box terminal. Keep the sensor wires as far away from the actuator motor wires as you are able to. Because the actuator motor can make some pretty dirty electrical noise that can cause false triggering that adds extra 'counts' to the v-box. BTW. I've made several encoders for linear actuators. Hall effect switches with Schmitt triggers, optical encoders and slotted trigger wheels. By far the best and most accurate are optical encoders. Especially when making a high resolution encoder. I have a 12' dish with 36" actuator. And have increased the pulse counts from the stock 6 ppr of the actuator output shaft to 20. It gives very accurate dish positioning and excellent repeatability. Hope this helps a bit. I'm new here. [/QUOTE]
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Vbox 3 and actuator wiring
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