Moving the dish

scopus

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Could you remind what exactly is the issue here? What is wrong with SSS adapter?
I think a friend of Moonbase had one snap where it was welded, makes you wonder if there welding is up to the job!
 

moonbase

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I think a friend of Moonbase had one snap where it was welded, makes you wonder if there welding is up to the job!


Not that I recall, however age does play tricks with the memory :-doh

When I got my pole adapter fabricated recently, I explained to the fabricator what the part was going to be used for. They recommended a "fillet weld" for the upper and lower section of pipe to the interface plate. As I am not up to speed on welding techniques I accepted the benefit of their recommendation.


Rgds
 

scopus

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Not that I recall, however age does play tricks with the memory :-doh

When I got my pole adapter fabricated recently, I explained to the fabricator what the part was going to be used for. They recommended a "fillet weld" for the upper and lower section of pipe to the interface plate. As I am not up to speed on welding techniques I accepted the benefit of their recommendation.


Rgds
Perhaps it's me. I'm sure someone posted that on the forum somewhere...
 

scopus

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Perhaps it's me. I'm sure someone posted that on the forum somewhere...
It was Blademedia not you MB, apologies..His friends dish ended up in the greenhouse!
 

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It's rather poorly made, in my opinion. The weld which joins the 4.5" and 3" pieces together doesn't fill me with confidence and looks like it might fail at any time with flaking paint and rusting, considering the weight it holds. It's also incredibly light - lighter than it should be for its purpose. Also, it's open top, which makes all the rain water pour in and rust in from the inside.

Scopus has a strut bar supporting his.

p1010036-jpg.99952
 

moonbase

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It was Blademedia not you MB, apologies..His friends dish ended up in the greenhouse!


No worries, I was more concerned about the possible onset of memory loss and that I had forgotten about a pole adapter snapping in half.

Rgds
 

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A bit of a meccano type beef up job, but has put my mind at rest a bit, considering the weight of the CM dish.
 

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Yes it was my friends, it snapped around the weld
 
A

archive10

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I would consider using the benefit you have from your decision of using your NPRM rather than putting a pole in the middle of your concrete pad.

Instead, you need to either modify your NPRM to accept an additional 3" mast as the end, with proper support struts (beefy angular iron), or make a new one.

Principle idea can be seen from this Baird Mount, which is for a 3" pole

ds__wm_Baird_B334x40_NonPenetrating_Ro_DF4B18FFD84D3.jpg

If modifying your existing NPRM, leave the main pole in place, just in case you want to go back.

In this way, the load of the ballast stays in place weightwise, whereas the pole placement moves without the problems of the 90 degree arm extension as discussed by the other guys above.

The NPRM can be built from L-iron and a 3" pole, the trickiest part is where the pole attaches to the trays. But if you have welding equipment available, you should be ok with some supporting plate.

Note that the rest of the trays of my Baird is just bolted together, just as I would imagine yours is.

If you're really into the modular stuff, weld a 5" tube section to the end, and make a holder like the one @RimaNTSS suggests.
 

Captain Jack

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I hadn't thought of that. The NPRM comes apart and I can actually move the pole to the end by simply unbolting it. It will definitely need some extra reinforcements if I do go that route but at the same time it will only move it around 50cm from where it needs to be, not the full meter...

Or Rimant's suggestions... or a mix of! Will have a ponder.

2016-09-17 15.31.51.jpg
 
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I hadn't thought of that. The NPRM comes apart and I can actually move the pole to the end by simply unbolting it. It will definitely need some extra reinforcements if I do go that route but at the same time it will only move it around 50cm from where it needs to be, not the full meter...

Or Rimant's suggestions... or a mix of! Will have a ponder.
Well - by moving the NPRM to the edge (and slightly over) the concrete base, you can at least make a quick test-reconfiguration on a quiet day to check *if* you really get that much more signal from the extra meter (or at least 70 cm).
This will give you an indication of what to gain from modifying eisting NPRM, og making a new base for it from angular iron.

If re-doing the base, you may even make one that *extends* over the water-canal (or whatever it is), but is anchored firmly in your concrete.
 

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This is what's beyond the hedge.

2016-10-09 09.50.16.jpg

We'll be getting rid of all the weed etc but it's a very steep slope down, so not much I can put there.
 
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This is what's beyond the hedge.

We'll be getting rid of all the weed etc but it's a very steep slope down, so not much I can put there.

I see - but what I mean is make something equivalent to a wall-mount, eg. sticking out beyond a wall.
So the NPRM base has an inverted tripod attaching a "virutal" vertical wall, where the tripod then attaches to.
(I am in the summer cottage so I do not have the proper drawing apps available right now :mad:)

For anchorage, you will probably want to atttach the mount to the concrete base using threaded bars glued into the plinth.

I think @RimaNTSS know what I mean - he can probably throw together a drawing in no time :)
 

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Summer cottage mid February sounds funny :-rofl2
Attach something to the concrete base is usually done by anchor bolts. They hold very strong.
TBH, I think that to move antenna out of the existing concrete base is easier by making another concrete base - dig hole as deep as water level allows and fill it with lots of concrete. That would also be the simplest way forward.
 

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I see - but what I mean is make something equivalent to a wall-mount, eg. sticking out beyond a wall.
So the NPRM base has an inverted tripod attaching a "virutal" vertical wall, where the tripod then attaches to.
(I am in the summer cottage so I do not have the proper drawing apps available right now :mad:)

For anchorage, you will probably want to atttach the mount to the concrete base using threaded bars glued into the plinth
Something like this:

ST1_sketch.jpg

Of course with a suitable use of rectangular iron sections amd angular irons.
It could work...
 
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Captain Jack

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Thanks all - very useful info. Now to decide whether it's worth the effort!
 
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