2.4 DH Antenna installation

[blademedia]

BM, it would be interesting to compare your rotor with an LNBF on a linear satellite

Yes as soon as I'm setup will do a few tests, need to order a lnb before I can do anything, i best crack on

 

[John]

They come with every mechanical polariser I've ever installed (some are twins, some triples).

The link was to provide a circuit design if you don't have a receiver with fine stepper control, and wish to build your own from Arduino/Pi gubbins.

Thanks @CH for the link to the "Deluxe Feedhorn Servo Motor" project, for some reason i missed that. I like the look of that.

 

[Channel Hopper]

CH, I like the controller linked from your post: N0QBH Free to Air Satellite PIC Projects I can't work out what the pulse range is though as my co-rotor needs 0.3ms to 2.5ms to cover the full range.

I run a couple of receivers with built in polariser circuitry, memory storage per channel and stable.

There was an exception/departure when Chapparal introduced the Monterey 20/40, which could never drive their polarisers accurately, their Cheyenne was the last of the breed.

 

[moonbase]

@blademedia

What O/D and wall thicknes aluminium tube did you use for your feed ring support arms?

The steel collars arrived to hold the LNB in the feed ring and they are quite heavy. The Precision Ku arms are 12.5mm O/D with 3mm wall and they might be OK? However, I might be better off going for 20mm O/D with 5mm wall as that is the spec supplied by Elite for C Band feeds.

Rgds

 

[blademedia]

Ku arms are 12.5mm O/D with 3mm wall and they might be OK?

Hi moonbase, yes it is quite a heavy lump, I did make a suggestion for making a lighter version from aluminium tube further back in this thread, I made a smaller ring to hold it to show the general idea using tube,

The arms are same dimensions as above from your quote, they hold the collar with no issues, once I get a lathe I will make some collars from aluminium

 

[moonbase]

Hi moonbase, yes it is quite a heavy lump, I did make a suggestion for making a lighter version from aluminium tube further back in this thread, I made a smaller ring to hold it to show the general idea using tube,

The arms are same dimensions as above from your quote, they hold the collar with no issues, once I get a lathe I will make some collars from aluminium

@blademedia

Yes, I remember your post about using aluminium tube for a collar.

I am waiting of a delivery of some that I ordered last week, I ordered a length of 80mm O/D with 5mm wall. The 70mm I/D should be OK to make a collar with and it has enough thickness to tap a thread for a grub screw.

Rgds

 

[blademedia]

enough thickness to tap a thread for a grub screw

Another option moonbase would be to use rivetnuts, working on a couple of projects, one is new holder

 

[blademedia]

Another option moonbase would be to use rivetnuts

Like this, if you get aluminium ones its possible to lock them without the proper tool. they will hold themselves fine though like this.

 

[moonbase]

@blademedia

Thx, thats a very handy tip for the rivnuts, it saves tapping holes and gives a longer thread for grip.
I have a pack of 5 x 8mm thread ones in the shed but I think they are steel.

My 80mm O/D x 5mm wall aluminium tube arrived today. Will I need aluminium rivnuts for this if I hope to get them located without a special tool?


Thx

 

[blademedia]

@blademedia

Thx, thats a very handy tip for the rivnuts, it saves tapping holes and gives a longer thread for grip.
I have a pack of 5 x 8mm thread ones in the shed but I think they are steel.

My 80mm O/D x 5mm wall aluminium tube arrived today. Will I need aluminium rivnuts for this if I hope to get them located without a special tool?


Thx

Metal ones are ok for what we are doing the bolt shoves the rivetnut on the ring and holds it, aluminium ones would be better you can lock them, this video will give you a idea.

 

[blademedia]

Controller and sensor arrived this morning, its a nice well made product, I will get it connected over the weekend,

 

[s-band]

Controller and sensor arrived this morning, its a nice well made product, I will get it connected over the weekend,

Do you need the adapter? Couldn't you just use S1 S2 Gnd & +5V with either S1 or S2 connected to ground, depending on which one is the pulse input? or is there >5V on S1 or S2?

 

[blademedia]

Do you need the adapter?

No ive bought it for a laugh , off course I need it

 

[blademedia]

Some information here G.

The OHR adapter converts and reshapes the switch closures, providing precisely timed cycling ON/OFF pulses. The adapter minimizes switch bounce errors often produced by aging or dirty sensors and isolates the unwanted motor or terrestrial RF noise that may be carried on the distribution wiring connecting the sensor circuit to the satellite dish actuator motor.

Simple to install with direct four screw mounting on the ASC1 rear panel terminal strip. Three color coded terminals provide easy reference for connecting the sensor. The interface is directly powered from the ASC1's 5Vdc terminal with no external power supply required.


The heart of the reed relay adapter is a Standex-Meder Reed Relay SIL05-1A72-71D. See PDF reference datasheet: http://titaniumsatellite.com/downloads/asc1/datasheet_SIL05-1A72-71D.zip
No additional configuration or set-up is necessary. Install and use the ASC1 using the normal procedure.

Install Guide - Download

 

[John]

Some information here G.

The OHR adapter converts and reshapes the switch closures, providing precisely timed cycling ON/OFF pulses. The adapter minimizes switch bounce errors often produced by aging or dirty sensors and isolates the unwanted motor or terrestrial RF noise that may be carried on the distribution wiring connecting the sensor circuit to the satellite dish actuator motor.

Simple to install with direct four screw mounting on the ASC1 rear panel terminal strip. Three color coded terminals provide easy reference for connecting the sensor. The interface is directly powered from the ASC1's 5Vdc terminal with no external power supply required.


The heart of the reed relay adapter is a Standex-Meder Reed Relay SIL05-1A72-71D. See PDF reference datasheet: http://titaniumsatellite.com/downloads/asc1/datasheet_SIL05-1A72-71D.zip
No additional configuration or set-up is necessary. Install and use the ASC1 using the normal procedure.

Install Guide - Download

Iv'e got one of these in storage at the moment, also with the adapter but using the RC2000 as you know at the moment. I would recommend doing the capacitor additions at the servo end as well and observe what it says about the braid connections re: earthing. The cap mods and the adapter certainly improved the operation of the unit, i also wound the servo cable coming out the back of the unit around a large ferrite ring a few turns. The software channel program is very handy as well ... reason being the internal F/W of the unit can be a bit touchy and crash sometimes loosing all your settings, you can just re-load them back in if this happens.
I liked mine i have to say, even went to the trouble of changing the lcd display to a blue one --- didn't work any better but looked good lol.

 

[blademedia]

Iv'e got one of these in storage at the moment, also with the adapter but using the RC2000 as you know at the moment. I would recommend doing the capacitor additions at the servo end as well and observe what it says about the braid connections re: earthing. The cap mods and the adapter certainly improved the operation of the unit, i also wound the servo cable coming out the back of the unit around a large ferrite ring a few turns. The software channel program is very handy as well ... reason being the internal F/W of the unit can be a bit touchy and crash sometimes loosing all your settings, you can just re-load them back in if this happens.
I liked mine i have to say, even went to the trouble of changing the lcd display to a blue one --- didn't work any better but looked good lol.

Thanks J, I read about the caps will have another read and order them, I have various ferrite rings somewhere, Feedsat rates the unit and had no issues reading your question to him,

It will be connected to a Thomson Saginaw so should be no problems at the motor end,

Connected the unit to the rear straight forward, I have optical sensor so just follow the information below.

 

[s-band]

Ah, makes sense now. They didn't include debounce in the box. debounce circuit - Google Search or this MAX6816, MAX6817, MAX6818 ±15kV ESD-Protected, Single/Dual/Octal, CMOS Switch Debouncers - Overview from Mouser/Digikey

 

[scopus]

Even that unit is 'Made in China'!

 

[blademedia]

Probably most parts from the Research Concepts controller are made in china, china do sell some good stuff, they also sell some crap.

 

[blademedia]

Controller and sensor arrived this morning, its a nice well made product, I will get it connected over the weekend,

Very pleased with this controller its very precise, only issue ive found pressing backup on the sky remote sends the dish W ,

I couldn't understand what was going on to start with, while working in the garden dish would start moving, it turns out when the wife presses backup on sky remote of it goes, i will have to position it somewhere else/pull the backup button off the sky remote