Ajak Patriot

[RimaNTSS]

That is VBOXII I just found 5V relay and connected it to the converter. Now, when there is a slot in the wheel, the relay turns on and the positioner feels the pulse. So, it works, however there is an additional relay in the chain.

 

[ArloG]

A mechanical, hard contact relay will eventually glitch. And faster than a reed switch because they aren't in an inert gas/vaccum.
SSR is the way to go. I worked in industrial electronics for a long, long time. And the only time one failed was when a motor seized or shorted out.
But hey, rock on. For the optical switches you have. Could you link to them or state the IC used on it?
One thing you do not want to do is inject a voltage on the vbox sensor terminals because those lead to the internal optocoupler.
Same as the ASC1. A buffer interface is needed to provide switch closure on the terminals.
If you lived this side of the pond I'd just extract a few from the pc boards I have and fling them to you.
One like this would work perfect. 3-32 VDC input, up to 60 VDC output rating.

 

[RimaNTSS]

Thanks for the info. Of course, I know that the mechanical relay is not a food solution, and I used it as a very temporary solution. I have installed SUCH switch
How do you think, THIS SSR will do the job?

 

[ArloG]

Thanks for the info. Of course, I know that the mechanical relay is not a food solution, and I used it as a very temporary solution. I have installed SUCH switch
How do you think, THIS SSR will do the job?

Look at the load side. It must be for DC. And the load voltage rating should be in the ballpark also.
The basic concept is that AC SSR's switch on zero crossing of sine waves.. So no matter where in the load side of the AC phase relation is when control trigger is applied,. They switch on only when the sine wave crosses the positive AC excursion. And if the control voltage is removed, will still conduct until the waveform voltage drops to zero.

Great especially for 3-phase motors, as each stator winding will get power only when the phase rises to zero. "Soft Start" as it's known.
It may be subtle. But if you know what to listen for in especially 3-phase motors switched with SSR's. They start much smoother.
And typically last longer.

In extreme cases where a definite purpose 3-phase hard contact relay's contacts are worn. The motor it's hooked to will give a pronounced "grunt" or even try to start in reverse. If any 2 of the 3 contacts close first and it happens at the right point in the phasing, the motor gets a jolt in the opposite direction. Then the lagging set of contacts close and establishes the direction until the windings "catch-up" and turn it the right way....in kind of a violent jerk. Remember, you can reverse the direction of any 3-phase motor by simply switching any 2 stator wires.
I believe using an AC SSR used with DC will not switch off the triac until the load side voltage is removed.

They come in all flavors (notice I left out the never-needed "U")...imma wanker!
I've even seen some of the cube units with a red LED in a tiny hole on them to tell you when they are activated. And if you shine a flashlight (torch???) with enough IR into the window when not activated, they turn on.

The Opto DC60S-3 datasheet states it will turn on with 3 volts minimum voltage and turn off at 1 volt on the control side.
The exact same as the flat Crydom ones I have.

 

[RimaNTSS]

OK, then this SSR should work for me?

 

[RimaNTSS]

Well, found this DC-DC SSR. Yes, it works. I think I will order some DC-DC SSRs from Aliexpress, but those in small physical size, of even make something similar from MOSFETs I have in the box

 

[ArloG]

It should work fine. Personally, chinesium aliexpress electronic components give me the heebie-jeebies. I could not even find a datasheet for the one you have right now. I bought an assortment of 78XX, LM series voltage regulators with ST Micro logos. Every single one a fake. And when approaching half the rated current of the originals. Puked all over the place. Never ever again.
Why take a chance? The link I gave for the Opto brand. They are excellent. So are Crydom's. There are many SSR's of different name brands with the same form factor. Such as the first one. A Crydom (and others) clone.
My concerns using datasheets would be switching time. Quite important in my shoes where my encoder chops every actuator screw rotation into 20 slices. Too much lag turning on or too much 'hang-time' when turning off. Yeahhh....

Anyhow. The photo shows the one I use. I have boards and boards with them (so you don't think I was full of b.s). And every one has operated probably millions of cycles at the very least.
And each one would last years and years more. You're free to look up the data sheet for them. I would say that in operation they probably switched every 0.05 seconds. At times continuous. And they were triggered with u-shaped photo switches, but on a more grand scale than ours.

Anyway. Only suggestions. Not meant as criticism (which I handle pretty well....because my stuff works).
I did not really see where your encoder wheel is mounted or how fast it spins.
A hint to probably shorten the switching time would be to measure the voltage at the input terminals and fashion a series resistor to lower the switch-on voltage to a touch above the SSR threshold. But you should be just fine if the encoder turns slow.

 

[RimaNTSS]

I have boards and boards with them

Sell some of them to me. I will also pay shipping.

I did not really see where your encoder wheel is mounted or how fast it spins.

I mounted a wheel on top of the original (one with magnets inside). It is 28mm in diameter. So, if I remove my wheel, the original will still work with the reed switch.

 

[ArloG]

Right up your alley. Not a bad price and on a board ready to go.

 

[RimaNTSS]

One of my Ajacs was missing part of the cover, so I made one from material which is not plastic.

 

[Channel Hopper]

A mechanical, hard contact relay will eventually glitch. And faster than a reed switch because they aren't in an inert gas/vaccum.
SSR is the way to go. I worked in industrial electronics for a long, long time. And the only time one failed was when a motor seized or shorted out.
But hey, rock on. For the optical switches you have. Could you link to them or state the IC used on it?
One thing you do not want to do is inject a voltage on the vbox sensor terminals because those lead to the internal optocoupler.
Same as the ASC1. A buffer interface is needed to provide switch closure on the terminals.
If you lived this side of the pond I'd just extract a few from the pc boards I have and fling them to you.
One like this would work perfect. 3-32 VDC input, up to 60 VDC output rating.

I worked for a while with Uniden in the 90's, their UST-771 was probably one of the first positioners without mechanical stuff under the bonnet.

https://www.reichelt.com/at/de/bipolartransistor-npn-180v-1-5a-10w-to-126-sc-3117-p16653.html?r=1

and the Sanyo component

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