Jaeger 1224 restoration

[itchybag]

hallelujah, the 3 top bolts are out. Drilled through the bolt with a 6mm bit and was a tad off centre, plan was then to up it to a 8mm but that would end up into the alloy so hammered a slotted head bit into the remaining bolt, heated it and backed it out. yeehaa.

 

[itchybag]

Dilemma, do i bray the centre pin out and hope i can remove the top plate without damaging the internals or just paint it in situe

 

[ArloG]

Good progress. Having the right tools at the right time sure does help. Or friends with them.
A sand or bead blasting cabinet sure would be nice for the rusty, corroded stuff.
If you've never used Evapo-Rust you'd be amazed at how it works versus electrolysis. I cannot say more. Electrolysis to remove the crust and then a soak in it would bring big smiles.
Kroil. You gotta' get a can of Kroil!
Helicoil kits are not too expensive for a one-off fix. They don't overbore much compared to a drill to the next size up. Or....and friend with a Time-Sert kit.
The old mig or tig a nut to broken studs and bolts works wonders. Sometimes, usually.
Drilling into twisted off hardware and making sure the pilot hole is centered is a pain. The bolt or stud becomes work hardened in the exact place you need to drill. Sucks!
A steel or copper sleeve slipped over the protruding threads or inside of a recessed bore. Perhaps telescoping another piece inside. Makes for a drill guide that should let you start the pilot hole centered.
Those diamond Dremel-type cutter bit assortments you see in hardware stores are awesome. Using the above sleeve guide you will be able to grind a starter hole right smack in the center. Let the diamond do the work. Squirt cooling water to flush the cuttings. A small set of end mills using the same procedure works.
That last photo of the mounting flange would be handled well with a small bearing knife. I have a set from small to large. Really makes pulling a tough CV axle from vehicles quick work.
Too bad you don't have a hobbiest powder coat rig and able to send the wifey out while you steal her oven for a bit!
Good job!

 

[itchybag]

Good progress. Having the right tools at the right time sure does help. Or friends with them.
A sand or bead blasting cabinet sure would be nice for the rusty, corroded stuff.
If you've never used Evapo-Rust you'd be amazed at how it works versus electrolysis. I cannot say more. Electrolysis to remove the crust and then a soak in it would bring big smiles.
Kroil. You gotta' get a can of Kroil!
Helicoil kits are not too expensive for a one-off fix. They don't overbore much compared to a drill to the next size up. Or....and friend with a Time-Sert kit.
The old mig or tig a nut to broken studs and bolts works wonders. Sometimes, usually.
Drilling into twisted off hardware and making sure the pilot hole is centered is a pain. The bolt or stud becomes work hardened in the exact place you need to drill. Sucks!
A steel or copper sleeve slipped over the protruding threads or inside of a recessed bore. Perhaps telescoping another piece inside. Makes for a drill guide that should let you start the pilot hole centered.
Those diamond Dremel-type cutter bit assortments you see in hardware stores are awesome. Using the above sleeve guide you will be able to grind a starter hole right smack in the center. Let the diamond do the work. Squirt cooling water to flush the cuttings. A small set of end mills using the same procedure works.
That last photo of the mounting flange would be handled well with a small bearing knife. I have a set from small to large. Really makes pulling a tough CV axle from vehicles quick work.
Too bad you don't have a hobbiest powder coat rig and able to send the wifey out while you steal her oven for a bit!
Good job!

yeah, watched a load of youtube vids for tips n tricks. Have to make do with what you have. The correct tools would make it a breeze but for 1 offs there is only so much you can spend though

 

[itchybag]

got that screw head bolt out of the top plate. heated and whacked it from both ends, i dont want wreck the internals as i dont think its supposed to be hammered out with force. What are the replacement options if i just drill it?

 

[Captain Jack]

I used a hollow stainless steel/INOX tube to replace the weird bolt in there and retained it with a normal nut and bolt.

Gives you more freedom to choose the diameter of the hole to drill - within reason.

 

[itchybag]

I used a hollow stainless steel/INOX tube to replace the weird bolt in there and retained it with a normal nut and bolt.

Gives you more freedom to choose the diameter of the hole to drill - within reason.

yeah, was thinking of either replacing it with a piece of iron bar and drilling and tapping that to about 6mm and bolting it from both ends or even just a suitable snug nut n bolt. I could have just as easily left it, cleaned up all the other parts and assembled it as is what i would have probably done if we were heading into summer.

 

[Captain Jack]

It's an infuriating bolt and to do a full restoration, you need to remove the top triangular plate in order to remove the plastic surround. But depends on how far you want to go.

 

[itchybag]

It's an infuriating bolt and to do a full restoration, you need to remove the top triangular plate in order to remove the plastic surround. But depends on how far you want to go.

yeah, would be nice to get all the parts powder coated and rid of all the rust

 

[itchybag]

wonder if this would ease the plate off using a long bolt in the centre so downward force can be applied while pulling the plate up?.

gear puller

 

[moonbase]

wonder if this would ease the plate off using a long bolt in the centre so downward force can be applied while pulling the plate up?.

gear puller

It will either remove the plate or snap it ! Those plates are made from some cheapo alloy using Chinese píss as hardener
I think I saw somewhere that someone had made one from an aluminium block and machined it to the exact size, not sure how they cut the central splines if there are any present?

Give it a go with the puller and let me know how you get on, I got wan 'ere needs to come off.

 

[itchybag]

It will either remove the plate or snap it ! Those plates are made from some cheapo alloy using Chinese píss as hardener
I think I saw somewhere that someone had made one from an aluminium block and machined it to the exact size, not sure how they cut the central splines if there are any present?

Give it a go with the puller and let me know how you get on, I got wan 'ere needs to come off.

will do, i will distribute the load foot print and see how it goes. the cheapo puller may break first. we will find out. need to drill that centre pin out yet so hopefully report back at the weekend.

 

[moonbase]

will do, i will distribute the load foot print and see how it goes. the cheapo puller may break first. we will find out. need to drill that centre pin out yet so hopefully report back at the weekend.

I got the pin out that goes horizontally through the central rotational axis and triangular plate with a pin drift.
Screwfix sell a set of pin drifts for small wad that includes a diameter size that does not damage the thread at one end of the pin.

I removed the pin by using the drift on the end that the screw comes out of, not the end with the threaded stud and nut.

 

[moonbase]

'ere, cop for a pin picture after removal.

.

 

[itchybag]

'ere, cop for a pin picture after removal.

.
View attachment 159238

What's the diameter of the pin? I'll go though with a 6mm bit first then full bore. The gear puller will be here in a few days. The hole on the plate being offset may cause issues with the puller. Hope with the 3 claws it will do the job.

 

[ArloG]

I take it you don't have auto parts stores that rent different tool sets and return them for free?
Single size Helicoil sets aren't that expensive. If you do use a jaw puller. Tighten the bolt. If things don't come loose, don't hog on it.
Instead. With a fair amount of torque on the bolt. Hit it dead on smartly with a ball peen hammer and see it it will tighten a bit more.
My preference where a jaw puller may break a cast item:

Bearing knife set

 

[itchybag]

I take it you don't have auto parts stores that rent different tool sets and return them for free?
Single size Helicoil sets aren't that expensive. If you do use a jaw puller. Tighten the bolt. If things don't come loose, don't hog on it.
Instead. With a fair amount of torque on the bolt. Hit it dead on smartly with a ball peen hammer and see it it will tighten a bit more.
My preference where a jaw puller may break a cast item:

Bearing knife set

that bearing knife set looks a far better option than the 3 claw gear puller

 

[Trust]

What's the diameter of the pin? I'll go though with a 6mm bit first then full bore. The gear puller will be here in a few days. The hole on the plate being offset may cause issues with the puller. Hope with the 3 claws it will do the job.

The pin is not strait but conical , the M6 end with nuth has the biggest diameter .
I
See this post Help Required - Searching for a jaeger smr 1224 puls magnet
The pin is also named Spigot make a search on that on this board and you find alot of topics

Once the pin is out try to turn the plate over the shaft before you use the puller .

 

[moonbase]

The pin is not strait but conical , the M6 end with nuth has the biggest diameter .

+1, Agreed, the pin has a taper on it, approx 10mm at the fat end and 8mm at the skinny end.
You gotta drift the bitch out from the machine screw end towards the stud/nut end.

 

[itchybag]

The pin is not strait but conical , the M6 end with nuth has the biggest diameter .
I
See this post Help Required - Searching for a jaeger smr 1224 puls magnet
The pin is also named Spigot make a search on that on this board and you find alot of topics

Once the pin is out try to turn the plate over the shaft before you use the puller .

wierd if its tapered theres no real need need for the nut. the weather is dire. all i want for Christmas is the pin out and the top plate off, in 1 piece ;o)