Multi LNB Set up on a Sky Dish

[jeallen01]

I'll have a look around at different types of pipes/trunking and will probably cable it up at a later date.

I have also seen this type of cable. It does say 'direct burial' - but I guess even with that there is the risk of bugs etc eating away at it?

Direct Burial Low Loss TV Satellite Coax Cable 100M

Our direct burial underground coax cable for CCTV has an ultra tough HDPE sheath that is resistant to small rodents and other sources of damage (Model: SFX/100-DB-GRN-100) (EAN: 5056631500124)

connectec.uk

That cable has "Copper Clad Alumium" ("CCA") braiding which "doesn't like water" and will corrode if damaged and wet -> avoid!!!

 

[Gladstones]

best is to avoid underground cabling

 

[Offtensive]

best is to avoid underground cabling

It's not really viable unfortunately, I would have to run it across the perimeter of the garden. Even then, it would cross a gate that may need to be opened at times.

The webro wf100 cable has a 6.55mm outside diameter; would a flexible pvc pipe/hose with a 7mm internal diameter work? Ideally without too much extra work to make it watertight etc.

I have seen this one at amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/KESOTO-Clear-Tubing-Meters-7×9mm/dp/B07CSMYM24/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=pvc+pipe+7mm&qid=1625502418&s=diy&sr=1-5

 

[sonnetpete]

Have you thought of using shrink wrap on the exterior of the pipe to seal the cable inside?

 

[Offtensive]

Have you thought of using shrink wrap on the exterior of the pipe to seal the cable inside?

Not until now, thank you for that.

I’ve just had a read into it, and they say to do it with a heat gun. I’ve got one lying around, it does 450/600 degrees - would that be ok for the cable to handle?

 

[sonnetpete]

I’ve just had a read into it, and they say to do it with a heat gun. I’ve got one lying around, it does 450/600 degrees - would that be ok for the cable to handle?

I really don't know, however to be on the safe side, why not try a hair dryer? I've also seen shrink wrap reduced with the heat from a cigarette lighter.

 

[Channel Hopper]

The side of a soldering iron allows controlled shaping.

 

[Offtensive]

Breeze blocks on the interior ? (Can never be too sure)

If so a set of 75mm bolts should be enough, as long as they are drilled into the bricks and not the mortar.

Are M8s ok, or should I go for M10?

 

[Gladstones]

Please see Post no. 137 to 145

 

[jeallen01]

Are M8s ok, or should I go for M10?

TBH, I (and probably quite a few other people!) are getting very confused as to what size of dish (& motor????) are you NOW going to mount on the post because the size & weight of "whichever" will basically determine the size & length of the anchor bolts that would be appropriate ??????

 

[Offtensive]

Please see Post no. 137 to 145

That was when I was thinking of using a zone 1 dish as a fixed dish.

TBH, I (and probably quite a few other people!) are getting very confused as to what size of dish (& motor????) are you NOW going to mount on the post because the size & weight of "whichever" will basically determine the size & length of the anchor bolts that would be appropriate ??????

It’ll be a Tm2600 motor with a 1.1m dish, on TK brackets with a 4ft scaffold pole.

 

[Gladstones]

Get M10 expansion bolts

 

[jeallen01]

Get M10 expansion bolts

Agreed!

And longer than 80mm = 90-100mm!

 

[Offtensive]

I’m just installing the K brackets now. The gap between the top two drill holes and the bottom drill hole is 27cm, so I’m finding it hard to get the bottom drill hole in to the centre of the brick. It will most likely end up being at bottom of the brick and in the mortar - do you have any recommendations/workarounds for me please?

 

[ozumo]

Drill another hole in the bracket, or enlarge the current one.

 

[Offtensive]

Would it be ok if I attach the top two holes of the bracket to the wall, and then drill into the bracket whilst it is on the wall?

 

[ozumo]

I would drill the hole in the bracket first.

 

[jeallen01]

Assuming that the dish will be above the top bracket the main weight will be on that, and so the lower one will be carrying less weight and mainly stabilising the pole and the forces on that will be mainly lateral rather than vertical - therefore I'd be inclined to drill the hole(s) for that as deep as you can, and use a long a bolt as you can, and with the epoxy resin.

To be clear, my approach would use the existing holes in the lower bracket, and not drilling new holes in that.

 

[Offtensive]

I’ve shifted the top bracket up slightly and have all three of those bolts in the brick, whereas for the bottom bracket only two are in the brick - I haven’t drilled the third one yet.

for the top bracket, the top right hole is slightly loose - I was able to push in the shield anchor without any force. When I tighten it, it does grip and doesn’t come forward. But should I use some resin in there to make it stronger?

edit: Now that I’ve tightened it, when I removed the bolt, the shield/sleeve has gripped the brick, I assume this is because it’s expanded.

These are the bolts I’m using btw

 

[jeallen01]

That's a better approach - and, No, you shouldn't need resin if the expanding anchor doesn't move/twist when you remove the bolt, (and that's why expanding anchor bolts are better than "rawlplugs" and similar plastic fixings!) but it's still a good idea if it is in the mortar between bricks.