How much do installers charge to fit motorized system??

ash213

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Rick said:
Can you get some grips on them and unscrew them ? If they have snapped flush with or below the face of the brick, you will be best off moving the bracket slightly and start again. A little grease on the thread will help the bolt go in without snapping.

i will not be able to get to the screw but maybe pull the nylon out with plyers? would this be a possibility?

ta.
 

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satelliteman said:
Sounds like you'd drilled a hole too small for the expansion of the nylon. M10's require a 10mm drill bit.

this defo is a 10mm drill bit.
 

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ash213 said:
i will not be able to get to the screw but maybe pull the nylon out with plyers? would this be a possibility?

ta.

Got to be worth a try, but the nylon bit should be in the wall, and not get at-able. Did you drill the holes deep enough ?
 

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Rick said:
Got to be worth a try, but the nylon bit should be in the wall, and not get at-able. Did you drill the holes deep enough ?

i hope i drilled far enough...

i was rushing a lil becuase of the weather.

ill take aloook over the weekend, saturday probably and try and get the nylon out.

cheers
 

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Whenever I've put up T&Ks, for my own personal use only, I've always used rawlbolts. Is there any advantage using nylons and coach bolts, or really is the advantage with the rawlbolts as never had one break.....?

Unh.
 

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Unhban said:
Whenever I've put up T&Ks, for my own personal use only, I've always used rawlbolts. Is there any advantage using nylons and coach bolts, or really is the advantage with the rawlbolts as never had one break.....?

Unh.


Rawlbolts can split or crack some soft bricks. Coach screws / nylons are of course less expensive.



ash213 said:
i hope i drilled far enough...

i was rushing a lil becuase of the weather.


Measure 75mm on the drill bit [if you have purchased 70mm in length] or offer up the coach screw, then apply some PVC tape around the bit as a guide.
 

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I use M10 75mm Thunderbolts 9 times out of 10 when installing TK's for a motorised.
 

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I use the M10 and M8 x 10mm shield anchors... or the Fischer BZP Throughbolts. On a small rig, single skin wall, the coach screws / nylons should do just as well. If they can hold up a 12 foot aerial rig, they should be fine for a low level dish.
 

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My house is Accrington brick - as you know a very hard brick. Which make are the best drills, car boot sale ones soon go blunt!

Unh.
 

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Unhban said:
My house is Accrington brick - as you know a very hard brick. Which make are the best drills, car boot sale ones soon go blunt!

Unh.

I use bosch sds drill bits.
 

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yeah I would too advise using a sds drill if you can borrow one/ lucky to already have one. I burnt a drill out when fitting my dish up as the walls too solid brick was a decent make too but hammer action was awful.

if using sds be aware the drill bits will make slightly larger holes than using ordinary drill bits.

i used these in the pic to hold my system up
 

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Rick said:
Did you drill the holes deep enough ?
Ditto. What I always do when drilling to get the depth right is put the bolt side by side with the drill bit and then wrap the drill bit in insulating tape as a marker. Then drill into the wall until the tape marker is flush with the wall.
 

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As indicated in post #66.
 

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chaps,
thought i would post these photos for a lil help where the screws are stuck in the brick :confused

just tried and cant get them out or the nylon so wondering if i should drill a hole next to the existing hole in the brick in the second pic?

in the first pic can i drill into the concrete between the two bricks?

i dont fancy moving the whole thing becuase like i said, im rented property and dont want holes all over the place,

cheers for advice.

ta.
 

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satelliteman

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You can't really drill into the mortar but if it's just the one fixing, you might get away with it. Make sure the hole is deep enough when you re-drill.
 

ash213

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satelliteman said:
You can't really drill into the mortar but if it's just the one fixing, you might get away with it. Make sure the hole is deep enough when you re-drill.

with the t bracket i think ill drill another hole next to the existin hole and that should be ok.

with the k bracket its the hole at the bottom which the screw is stuck...i know this will sound silly but can i get away with not screwing that hole up? as in just had the two other screws at the top tight? it doesnt feel as if it moves at all.
 

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Your choice but would advise all fixing points are bolted.
 

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There is a reason for three mounting holes, and that is to fix the bracket in three places. Fixing into the mortar bed is definatly not advisable. If your going to do the job, you may as well do it right :)
 

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ash213 said:
with the t bracket i think ill drill another hole next to the existin hole and that should be ok.

with the k bracket its the hole at the bottom which the screw is stuck...i know this will sound silly but can i get away with not screwing that hole up? as in just had the two other screws at the top tight? it doesnt feel as if it moves at all.

If you have a metal bit it is possible to drill another hole into the T bracket an inch or so from the rectangular one, then fix a new bolt through that.
 
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