How much do installers charge to fit motorized system??

ash213

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Channel Hopper said:
If you have a metal bit it is possible to drill another hole into the T bracket an inch or so from the rectangular one, then fix a new bolt through that.

a metal drill bit?
 

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In order to drill into differrent materials, drill bits are made out of different materials and to different designs.

To drill into sheet steel (which is what the bracket is made of) you need something called a high speed twist drill (HSS drill bit). These are made of a type of steel which can withstand the high temperatures generated on the cutting end of the drill bit.

A drill bit for wood looks somewhat similar but instead of having an angled end has a flatter end with a small point in the centre so that it doesn't wander off across the wood. The flutes at the side are also wider to clear the wood shavings away and they aren't usually made for high temperatures. You can, of course, drill wood with an HSS drill but not the other way round. The flutes tend to get clogged with sawdust though.

A masonry bit look similar to an HSS bit but has a special toughened blade brazed into the cutting end which doesn't shatter when cutting brick and stone. A variation on this is for an impact drill which is just a bit stronger and slightly differently made. The cutting blade is what determines the diameter of the hole and the fluted shaft is smaller in diameter to shift the brick dust.

You should use the drill bit to suit the material. There are some supposed multi-purpose drill bits but I've not been too impressed with them as they sem a compromise.
 

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Unless you have the high performance Bosch multi construction TCT bit set ;)

Suitable for practically all materials e.g brick, concrete, wood, plastic, steel, aluminium and especially for ceramics & tiles. Contains 5, 5.5, 6 (x2), 7, 8 and 10mm.

These do work.
 

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thanks for replies, think ill stay clear of drilling the metal.

im away tonight so will carry on working on the system tomorrow afternoon.

hopefully will have it all screwed in and the pole up.

will then start hooking up the dish....

more stress!! once dish is up will i have to start the USALS all over again etc??
 

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Yes, follow the detailed motor dish set up guides.
 

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satelliteman said:
Yes, follow the detailed motor dish set up guides.

one small question....

the metal rod that sticks out for the LNB seems to be lose and twists a little, can that be tightened at all?

in addition the black plastic that the LNB sits in is also lose...how do i sort them out?

One other thing, with regards to the LNB, which is the correct way it should direct...is there ONE way it should direct at all times/angle etc..(sorry for the question)
 

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ash213 said:
one small question....

the metal rod that sticks out for the LNB seems to be lose and twists a little, can that be tightened at all?

in addition the black plastic that the LNB sits in is also lose...how do i sort them out?

One other thing, with regards to the LNB, which is the correct way it should direct...is there ONE way it should direct at all times/angle etc..(sorry for the question)


You mean the LNb boom. Well I do not know what dish you have so can't comment.

The LNb skew should be at zero for a motor installation.
 

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satelliteman said:
Unless you have the high performance Bosch multi construction TCT bit set ;)

Suitable for practically all materials e.g brick, concrete, wood, plastic, steel, aluminium and especially for ceramics & tiles. Contains 5, 5.5, 6 (x2), 7, 8 and 10mm.

These do work.

Yes I can vouch for that, very good for tiles, and does a good job with everything else.
 

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I tried drilling yorkshire stone with a standard wood bit once - I got a couple of inches in before the drill bit got almost white hot :-rofl2
 

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Analoguesat said:
I tried drilling yorkshire stone with a standard wood bit once - I got a couple of inches in before the drill bit got almost white hot :-rofl2

I'm amazed you made it that far ! What did you do, get another to finish the other 2 inches ? :D
 

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No - I touched the drill being young and stupid and took all the skin off my fingertip. I lost all interest in drilling holes in that wall at that point :-lmao

When I had a good look at the drill bit later it had got so hot it had taken about a third of its diameter off the end of the bit and instead of being more or less cylindrical was now conical! :eek:


The bit wasnt much good after that :D
 

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Analoguesat said:
When I had a good look at the drill bit later it had got so hot it had taken about a third of its diameter off the end of the bit and instead of being more or less cylindrical was now conical! :eek:

The bit wasnt much good after that :D

Been there - done that

The remainder of the drill is actually very good for drilling through mortar betwen the bricks, once you have found the mortar (from the inside) of course.
Additionally without the hammerhead bits on the side the hole made is almost identical to the cable, so no filling or those horrible plasic plugs required. They can set fire to wallpaper though.

I have one worn SDS in the van that's a metre long unit, and I still use it. Will get a couple of pictures onto the site early next week
 

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My 1000mm SDS bits never last long.
 

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RIGHT CHAPS

UPDATE



SEMI SUCCESS.

all set up, plumb straight level etc...

thought id just try and find 28e for basic sky at the mo before i go any further...

managed to find it, at times iver had 99% signal quality... but still every channel says tuner error (or whatever it says)

one thing at times the BER was zero, other times it was thousands, and right now its going from 10 - 50 odd..

why cant i pick up channels. i have around 60% quality right now, please look at photos and tell me what to do.

im quit hapy i set it up to an extent.

please help me! will probably go back at it tomorrow or later tonight to make any adjustments.

had to stop as my girlfriend was getting pee'd off on the phone to me telling me when i had signal etc - ( she has no interest in my satellite hobby at all )

cheers all
 

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satelliteman

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You need to raise it on the pole.


ash213 said:
please look at photos and tell me what to do.

No one can tell you what to do from a photo. Have you read the motor setup guides?




:-looky
 

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satelliteman said:
You need to raise it on the pole.

You recon this is why im not picking up channels?

I did have it higher at one point but when i was trying to find signal it lowered abit , im quite weak and couldnt keep the dish up and spin it round to find signal...

will higher it at some point and hope.

why does it have to be higher any way? just wondered.

cheers
 

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It's not tracking because you've not set it up properly as per the tutorials.
 

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ash213 said:
You recon this is why im not picking up channels?

I did have it higher at one point but when i was trying to find signal it lowered abit , im quite weak and couldnt keep the dish up and spin it round to find signal...

will higher it at some point and hope.

why does it have to be higher any way? just wondered.

cheers

Stick a jubilee clip or an exhaust clamp round the pole just above the lower bracket. If its loose enough to slip down on its own you can lift the post and nip up the clip - it'll hold the tube enough to allow you to raise it another couple of inches and start again.

Mark the post so you can easily straighten it up again after you have finished lifting!

As for higher - it doesnt matter how high the dish is as long as its got clear line of sight onto the desired satellites, (Ive used ground mouted dishes for years with no problems) but yours looks like the lnb arm or lnb may foul the top of the garage when its cranked round to the far ends of the arc.
 

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satelliteman said:
It's not tracking because you've not set it up properly as per the tutorials.

Dude,

Ive followed tutorials.

Why is it not picking up channels, i dont understand
 

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Did you set it up on Thor 0.8°W or 5°W ?
 
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